Epoxy deep pour calculator

Pour tips

• Build and seal the mold. Build the form from 3/4" birch plywood and line every inside surface with clear packing tape so the epoxy releases. Run a bead of silicone along every seam, inside and out. Epoxy finds every gap, so check it before you pour.
• Seal the wood. Brush a thin seal coat on bark edges, cracks and end grain. It stops air in the wood from bubbling up into the big pour. Pour your main layer while the seal coat is still tacky, or let it fully cure, then scuff it with 60 or 80 grit sandpaper for a better bond.
• Warm the resin. Bring both parts to room temperature before you mix. Cold resin is thick and holds bubbles. Our Deep Pour safety data sheet lists storage at 70–85°F.
• Measure and mix thoroughly. Measure Part A and Part B by volume at the ratio on the label, in marked cups. Mix slowly for several minutes, scraping the sides and bottom, until there are no streaks. Pouring into a second cup and mixing again (two-container method) is the surest way.
• Pour in layers. Never go deeper per layer than the product allows. Thick, large pours make their own heat and can crack, yellow or boil. Let each layer reach the stage on the label before the next one.
• Control the heat on big pours. Larger and deeper pours make their own heat as they cure. Lowering the room temperature and running airflow over the resin slows the cure, which helps prevent cracking, yellowing and other defects. Keep conditions steady and out of direct sun until it has fully cured.
• Pop the bubbles. A quick pass with a heat gun or torch, or W2A Bubble Buster, clears surface bubbles. Cover the piece from dust while it cures.
• Color your pour. Tint it with mica powder, metallic powder or glitter. Mix the color into Part A before adding Part B.
• Protect yourself. Always wear gloves and eye protection and work in a ventilated space.